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Lovely & Loved Smart & Loyal Great Friends & Companions We are Siberian Cats & Kittens

Hypo Allergenic Siberian Kittens

ABOUT US
SIBERIAN BREED
BREEDING PLANS
NEED TO KNOW INFORMATION
CONTRACT&RESERVATION FORM
KING & QUEENS
PAST LITTERS
TESTIMONIALS
KITTEN IN NEW HOME
KITTENS CARE
ALLERGY NOTE
KITTENS FUN LIFE
LINKS TO FRIENDS
NEWSFLASH
RETIRED QUEENS

 

 

                                                                                         



 

 

Each kitten will receive first vaccination with Fel-O-Guard at the age of 8 weeks with reoccurring second shot at the age of 12 weeks unless future owner prefers to take kitten early and assumes that responsibility in agreement with me after kitten wined from the mother cat and turns at least 8,3 weeks of age. Fel-O-Guard 3 killed includes protection from rerhinotracheitis, calici virus and panleukopenia(distemper).

 

 

 

 

 

Grooming

While Siberians don’t require the grooming Persians do, their thick fur still needs regular grooming or matting can occur. A thorough combing (not brushing) with a good steel comb once or twice a week should do the trick. Be sure to comb down to the hair roots (be gentle) or the comb may slide over forming mats.

In spring, the Siberian sheds his longer, heavier winter coat to make way for his summer coat, and in fall the cat sheds his lighter, shorter summer coat to prepare for winter. During these seasons additional grooming is needed if you don’t want tufts of fur on everything you own.

Siberians are rare, so they can be pricey. Kittens are in high demand and the supply is limited, so expect a wait. Pricing depends upon the breeder, bloodline, location, gender, and color and pattern.

Association Acceptance

The Siberian is accepted for championship by the following North American cat associations:

American Association of Cat Enthusiasts (AACE)
American Cat Association (ACA)
American Cat Fancier’s Association (ACFA)
Cat Fanciers’ Federation (CFF)
National Cat Fanciers’ Association (NCFA)
The International Cat Association (TICA)
Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA)

United Feline Organization (UFO)




                                                                                                  

 

 

Special Notes

Many breeders claim that people with cat allergies can tolerate Siberians. Various reasons are given for this, the most popular being that Siberians produce little or none of the allergenic protein Fel d1. This protein, which causes allergic reactions in humans, is secreted via saliva and sebaceous glands and is spread onto the fur during grooming. However, little testing has been done to confirm this so it would be unwise to buy a Siberian solely on the basis of these claims. If you’re allergic to cats, plan to spend time in close contact with Siberians, preferably over an extended period, to make sure you can tolerate them before agreeing to buy. However, spending time with a Siberian (or any cat) is no guarantee against future problems with allergies.

 

 

SOME ARTICLES THAT MIGHT ASSIST YOU WITH A NEW KITTEN

Toys For Your Pet That Are Safe and Fun


As with children's toys, safety should be first and foremost in your thoughts when considering a new toy purchase for your pet. Be sure not to give your pet toys that can be broken up and potentially stuck in their throats! Hard rubber toys line of products can provide with endless hours of chewing fun.

A recent favorite of cats and cat owners is the laser pointer. Cats never seem to tire from chasing that little red dot around, just be sure not to direct it at their eyes. The feather-and-pole type of toy is also very popular. Scratching posts are excellent forms of entertainment for cats.

 

 

 


 

Feeding and Training a Cat

Semi-moist foods are usually less expensive because they contain Some vegetable protein and are usually supplemented with nutrients to make them nutritionally complete, especially for growing kittens. Dry foods contain about 10 percent water and less fat and protein then semi-moist foods. Cats on dry diets should have plenty of water available. Some cats on dry diets may develop bladder problems. Milk, water, or gravy can be mixed with the food to improve palatability and to ensure that the cat gets adequate water intake. One may wish to feed canned foods occasionally to help prevent bladder problems, get the cat used to different types and textures of foods, and ensure tat the cat gets a balanced diet. Dry foods do have the advantage of helping to clean the teeth and prevent the buildup tartar. The amount of food one gives depends on the cat's age, weight, condition, and amount of activity it gets. Cats and young kittens will not consume enough food in one meal to last 24 hours. Two meals are recommended and young kittens and females that are pregnant or nursing require more frequent feedings. Cats should never be given a diet of dog food because it contains large amounts of cereals and vegetables. Because of this, the cat may not get enough animal protein.  Many times cats will be seen eating grass. The exact reason for this is not known, but it may be an attempt to increase roughage in the diet or to eliminate a hairball. The amount of exercise a cat needs varies considerably depending on the on the breed and where its home is. A cat living in a city apartment may get very little exercise, whereas one living in rural areas may be allowed to runs free. Apartment cats may need to be furnished with toys, cardboard tubes, or other play equipment to provide them with means to exercise Owners of valuable purebred or snow cats may not want their animals to run free where they risk injury, loss, or unwanted litters. Outdoor cats get plenty exercise however, they run a greater risk of injury from fights, of death or injury of the roadways, and of contacting diseases and parasites. Cats living in indoors should have clean litter box and plenty of water. Owners should be aware of plants that are poisonous to their pets and other dangers if the cat is left alone for long periods of time. To protect the furniture, cats should be trained to use a scratching post. Cats scratch to sharpen their claws, to remove loose scales and fragments of dry skin, and to leave a mark for other cats. Kittens should be trained to use a scratching post as soon as they are weaned. The kitten should be held by the scratching post and its claws placed on the post. The kitten will soon learn what to do and will usually come to the same post a cloth covered post may offer the cat an alternative to clawing on soft furniture and draperies.

Correct toilet training is easier with cats than with dogs because cats naturally cover their urine and feces. If a mother cat does a good job of raising her litter, she will probably train them to use a litter box. If a kitten does not know what the litter box if for, can train it easily. Holding it front paws, the owner should show it how to scratch the litter material. Every time the kitten appears to be looking for a place to urinate or defecate, it should be placed in the  litter box.

 

 

                                                             



 

Toilet Training

if you do not catch the cat going potty on the floor at the very moment; it will not make any sense to the cat what you do to them about it. Cats remember things like that only shortly. No rubbing the nose of the cat in it, that will only cause pain, or do anything that would harm or hurt your cat. By doing any of these painful acts will only make the cat afraid of you and you will have a very hard time training your cat to do any behaviors, or taking care of your cat.

Let's look at the potty device, to see what steps are taken to get the cat to use the toilet. First, you will need to put the device in the toilet. It is basically a small shallow version of a toilet bowl that fits under the ring on the toilet. The recommendation is to put small amount of cat litter in the small portion of the plastic bowl. Then remove all other cat litter boxes, so the cat will only find litter in one place. Another thought is to cover the plants on the floor, so the cat will not be able to dig in the dirt. With the device, that you get, there could be some type of fragrances to put on the toilet device to help attract the cat to that area. Leave the cat for a while in the bathroom, with the door closed, privacy is something that cat need and want and will the cat will explore that the litter in on the toilet and use it there. If there seems to be a problem with the cat going, you may want to put the litter box next to the toilet, this way the cat will get use to this and see the toilet, before getting the training started. In this time if you see that cat needs to go, pick the cat up and put it on the toilet with the device on so that kitty will see the device and the litter.This will all take time and lots of patience from you and some good training to the cat. The cat does not have natural instincts to go in the bathroom and go on the toilet. When a cat is older, this can be a real task as the older cats are usually set in their ways and do not like change. With this, you will want to use the slow approach. In the end, you and your cat will be happy that there are no more kitty litter boxes in the home. Rewards are very important in this training and hard also; you may not see or catch your cat on there going but remember to reward them when you do see them.

 

 

 



Parasites/Fleas

Parasites are organisms that survive by feeding off of other creatures. Among cats, parasites generally feed on the animal's blood. Detecting internal parasites can be difficult, but a close inspection of skin and fur is usually all that is needed to uncover traces of external parasites such as ear mites and fleas. There are many types of worms that are internal parasites to cats. If you see small, rice like debris around your cat's anus or in her bedding, take her to your veterinarian. He will need to run simple tests to identify what type of worm is present so that he can prescribe the proper medication to eliminate the parasite.

Coccidia are microscopic parasites. They live in cells within the lining of the intestines. The most common symptom is diarrhea. Left untreated, the animal becomes extremely weak and dehydrated. Fortunately coccidiosis is treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon) and trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen) are effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. However, these drugs do not kill the parasites, but rather inhibit reproduction - elimination of coccidia from the intestine is slow.

Ear mites take up residence in a cat's ear canals. As they feed, they cause intense itching. A cat suffering from an infestation of ear mites scratches behind her ears often and is seen violently shaking her head on a regular basis. If you look inside her ears, you will see dark flecks that resemble coffee grounds - these are the mites' droppings. If you suspect ear mites, contact your veterinarian.

There are several effective treatments for ear mites, such as Fipronil (Frontline) and Selamectin (Revolution). Ear mites are easily treated with eardrops, but are very contagious to other cats. If you have a multi-cat household, isolate the infected cat as soon as possible. Ear mites are not transmitted from cats to humans.

Ringworm is not a true worm, rather the name for a type of fungus, related to the fungus that causes athlete's foot in humans. It usually causes no discomfort, but is highly contagious to other cats and humans. If left untreated it weakens the immune system and leaves your cat vulnerable to other, more serious diseases.

Fleas are perhaps the most infamous pet parasite. Although they eat no more than a drop of blood each, a flea infestation can cause anemia in adult cats and death in kittens. In addition to literally sucking the life from your cat, fleas often transmit tapeworms, as serious internal parasite. Just a few fleas can cause great discomfort to your cat, especially if she is one of the many animals allergic to fleabites. The best way to conquer a flea invasion is to prevent it in the first place.

Daily grooming, especially if you allow your cat outdoors will help you keep one step ahead of the flea hordes. As you flea-comb your cat, dip the comb into a container of soapy water to kill the fleas. The soap film coats and suffocates the fleas.

Ask your veterinarian about preventative flea medications. These are given to your cat orally. The chemical they contain is harmless to your cat, but makes fleas sterile. It is absorbed into your cat's blood, so when a flea bites her it cannot reproduce.

If your cat has had fleas in the past, it is very likely that you have flea eggs and larvae in your carpet and upholstery. Your veterinarian can suggest a "flea bomb" based on how bad the infestation is. It is important to follow the package instructions carefully and repeat treatment as directed in order to make sure all the generations are eliminated.

 

 


 

SCRACHING

Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.

If that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach. Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard. Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat's favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.

2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs. Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it! Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key. As long as we're on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won't be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.

3. Trim the claws. It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.

4. Claw caps. These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many people report good results. Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.